No Summertime Blues
If you’re looking for a weekend getaway that doesn’t require a complicated itinerary or hours behind the wheel, Albert Lea makes a pretty convincing case for itself. Southern Minnesota’s “Land Between the Lakes” is easy to get around by bike, packed with locally owned restaurants, and full of unexpected discoveries. My wife, Jen, and I timed our visit with Eddie Cochran Days, the annual celebration of Albert Lea’s famous son that fills the roads with gleaming classic cars, rumbling V8s, and rockabilly music. Between the festival, the scenic trails, and some delicious detours, there was plenty here to keep us busy.
We unloaded the bikes, checked into the Holiday Inn Express and Suites, and spent the weekend seeing just how much we could pack into a couple of summer days.
Downtown Albert Lea was buzzing with people on a lovely Friday night, but we had no trouble finding sidewalk seating at Cento Pizza.
It wasn’t officially summer, yet, but it felt like it. Part of Broadway Avenue was roped off for a teaser car show before the big event the next day and crowds were roaming the streets. Somewhere, a band played rock ‘n’ roll tunes while muscle cars rumbled down the street.
A big, wood-fired oven in the back of the restaurant kept pumping out pies and ours soon arrived. Jen had the Century Blend pizza with different cheeses, and I opted for the Triple Threat, which was mostly meat, including pork belly.
It wasn’t officially summer, yet, but it felt like it. Part of Broadway Avenue was roped off for a teaser car show before the big event the next day and crowds were roaming the streets. Somewhere, a band played rock ‘n’ roll tunes while muscle cars rumbled down the street.
A big, wood-fired oven in the back of the restaurant kept pumping out pies and ours soon arrived. Jen had the Century Blend pizza with different cheeses, and I opted for the Triple Threat, which was mostly meat, including pork belly.
After we ate like royalty with golden utensils, we leaned back in our chairs and enjoyed our drinks. Jen had a Coconut Raspberry Breeze and I had the Finn, both non-alcoholic. However, they had a drink special for the Eddie Cochran weekend: Summertime Blue, a twist on the Old Fashioned with Blue Raspberry syrup.
Like a good summer night, the sun made us sweat just a little bit, but the breeze kept it at bay. We had a front-row seat to some great people-watching, with European street-café vibes. All we had to do was take it all in, stir the ice cubes in our drinks, and watch the drops of condensation run down the side of the glass.
Like a good summer night, the sun made us sweat just a little bit, but the breeze kept it at bay. We had a front-row seat to some great people-watching, with European street-café vibes. All we had to do was take it all in, stir the ice cubes in our drinks, and watch the drops of condensation run down the side of the glass.
We eventually got up to look at the cars on display at the Friday night roll-in. We were impressed, but were told that the Saturday car show was going to be an even bigger event. It just so happened we strolled along the lake and found ourselves at Eat’n Ice Cream. The name makes sense when you know it’s owned by the Eaton family.
Of course, the line was long on a warm summer evening, but it moved fast. Soon our treats arrived through the window.
We sat at New Denmark Park across the street and ate our ice cream on the shores of Fountain Lake. Just across from us, at Fountain Lake Park, the Star Chiefs played their rockabilly tunes and the music echoed across the water as the sun sank low on the horizon.
Of course, the line was long on a warm summer evening, but it moved fast. Soon our treats arrived through the window.
We sat at New Denmark Park across the street and ate our ice cream on the shores of Fountain Lake. Just across from us, at Fountain Lake Park, the Star Chiefs played their rockabilly tunes and the music echoed across the water as the sun sank low on the horizon.
We left the Holiday Inn Saturday morning and hopped on our bikes in search of food. Lucky for us, most of Albert Lea is very accessible by bike and just a short ride later we struck breakfast gold.
Calling Diana’s Diner cute isn’t doing it justice. Yes, it is small and there’s room for just a handful of orange Formica booths and tables, but it comes with a big story. It’s been a diner since the 1930s, but it didn’t become Diana’s Diner until owner Diana Newman took over in 2007. While working at another restaurant in Albert Lea, she learned that the old establishment on South Broadway Avenue was for sale. “I do this all day, I might as well do it for myself,” she remembers thinking when she decided to make the move.
Calling Diana’s Diner cute isn’t doing it justice. Yes, it is small and there’s room for just a handful of orange Formica booths and tables, but it comes with a big story. It’s been a diner since the 1930s, but it didn’t become Diana’s Diner until owner Diana Newman took over in 2007. While working at another restaurant in Albert Lea, she learned that the old establishment on South Broadway Avenue was for sale. “I do this all day, I might as well do it for myself,” she remembers thinking when she decided to make the move.
The decor stayed the same: wood-clad walls adorned with Eddie Cochran memorabilia, floor-mounted stools at the lunch counter, and a collection of witty signs. One read, “You don’t have to be crazy to work here. We train you.”
Of course, Diana knew every customer’s name because Diana’s Diner is the kind of place where the menus gather dust and are only meant for people like us who stumble in from the street for the first time. We were glad we did.
Of course, Diana knew every customer’s name because Diana’s Diner is the kind of place where the menus gather dust and are only meant for people like us who stumble in from the street for the first time. We were glad we did.
Just a short ride from the restaurant, we picked up the Blazing Star State Trail and were on our way to Myre-Big Island State Park. The 8-mile trail offers a peaceful ride between Albert Lea and the hamlet of Hayward as it winds across open farmland before entering the park’s diverse wetlands, woodlands, and prairie habitats. The route is paved except for half a mile or so of gravel on the eastern edge of the park. A bridge led us across a narrow spot on Albert Lea Lake, and soon we were at the trailhead in Hayward. We looped through town and couldn’t resist the call of Nick’s Country Store on the main drag. Walking out of the store with arms full of beef jerky and other delectations required some quick thinking to stow it all on our bikes.
Back in Albert Lea, the Eddie Cochran Days car show was underway.
The unmistakable scent of high-octane fuel and the deep rumble of finely tuned engines filled the air during the annual Eddie Cochran Rod and Custom Festival, a beloved Albert Lea tradition for more than four decades. Hundreds of gleaming classic cars, custom hot rods, muscle cars, and modern performance vehicles lined North Broadway Avenue with their hoods raised and convertible tops open.
The unmistakable scent of high-octane fuel and the deep rumble of finely tuned engines filled the air during the annual Eddie Cochran Rod and Custom Festival, a beloved Albert Lea tradition for more than four decades. Hundreds of gleaming classic cars, custom hot rods, muscle cars, and modern performance vehicles lined North Broadway Avenue with their hoods raised and convertible tops open.
We parked the bikes and wandered among the rows of polished classics, chatting with proud owners about restoration projects, horsepower, and automotive history.
Among the standout vehicles was Todd Brackey’s 1979 Porsche 911 Turbo, equipped with the legendary Ruf Performance package. “I’ve had it up to 110 mph in third gear at half throttle,” Brackey said, hinting at the car’s remarkable performance. We also found vintage trucks, a beautifully preserved 1919 fire engine, and brilliantly painted customs—one turquoise 1941 Ford with stylized flames even had a matching electric guitar on display.
Among the standout vehicles was Todd Brackey’s 1979 Porsche 911 Turbo, equipped with the legendary Ruf Performance package. “I’ve had it up to 110 mph in third gear at half throttle,” Brackey said, hinting at the car’s remarkable performance. We also found vintage trucks, a beautifully preserved 1919 fire engine, and brilliantly painted customs—one turquoise 1941 Ford with stylized flames even had a matching electric guitar on display.
Jen ducked into Between Friends Boutique for a few moments, and then it was time to move on to lunch at the Thirsty Fox Pub & Grill. Just a block or so outside of the really busy car show area we found a lovely, shaded patio, spicy nachos, and a couple of cold cocktails. It had been a busy morning, but we didn’t realize how much we needed a break until we sat in the shade to slurp our drinks.
Our next itinerary item was a stop at the Itasca Rock Garden, named so for the street it’s on, not the famous northern Minnesota lake. It was just a short bike ride away, like most places in Albert Lea.
We hadn’t traveled a quarter mile when we spied a roadside lemonade stand and just had to stop. Fueled by sugar and Vitamin C, we zipped down the road to our next stop. Somehow we ended up on the parade route the classic cars take around town after the car show, and got a lot of bewildered looks from spectators sitting on lawn chairs by the curb.
We hadn’t traveled a quarter mile when we spied a roadside lemonade stand and just had to stop. Fueled by sugar and Vitamin C, we zipped down the road to our next stop. Somehow we ended up on the parade route the classic cars take around town after the car show, and got a lot of bewildered looks from spectators sitting on lawn chairs by the curb.
Research told us that beginning in 1925, local resident John Christensen filled his backyard with handmade rock creations like a castle, pond, and grottos, but that did not prepare us for what we saw at the end of Itasca Road.
Inspired by the castles he remembered as a child growing up in Denmark, he built a scaled-down stone version, complete with turrets, spires, parapets, and battlements, but also a couple of grottos, walkways, benches, bridges, and a (now dry) pond and waterfall. The astonishing part was that it was all constructed by hand, with boulders and concrete, by Christensen and his wife, Sophie, when they were in their sixties. Jen and I have moved enough landscaping rocks in our lives to know that this was no easy task.
Inspired by the castles he remembered as a child growing up in Denmark, he built a scaled-down stone version, complete with turrets, spires, parapets, and battlements, but also a couple of grottos, walkways, benches, bridges, and a (now dry) pond and waterfall. The astonishing part was that it was all constructed by hand, with boulders and concrete, by Christensen and his wife, Sophie, when they were in their sixties. Jen and I have moved enough landscaping rocks in our lives to know that this was no easy task.
Looking at the structures in detail, we noticed a few unusual pieces that had found their way into the creation, some encrusted with crystals, some definitely volcanic, some appearing almost organic. We walked around the property and took a break from the summer heat in the shade of the huge trees covering the backyard. It was wonderful.
One of the volunteers on site told us that keeping up the weeding and maintenance is an ongoing effort in bringing the once neglected property back to its former beauty.
One of the volunteers on site told us that keeping up the weeding and maintenance is an ongoing effort in bringing the once neglected property back to its former beauty.
Back in town, the car show had wrapped up and things were revving up for the evening street dance on Broadway Avenue that’s always part of Eddie Cochran Days. As we passed Fountain Lake Park, we decided to hang out and watch the bands play for a while. People had gathered on the lawn in front of the pavillion, lounging in chairs and on the grass. Kids and adults alike were shakin’ a leg to the sounds of Richie Lee and the Fabulous 50’s.
We cinched up the day with a visit to Jake’s Pizza—but not before Jen posed for a shot on a bench next to Marion Ross, another famous Albert Lea resident. Unassuming on the outside, Jake’s was the place to be on Friday night, and had been since the 1960s. The small restaurant was packed with diners, but it didn’t take long for the well-oiled machine to jump into action and in just a few minutes, we were seated at a booth, and our order was on its way. I faced the kitchen and had a hard time focusing on the conversation, because I was mesmerized by the way half a dozen people moved around the tiny, tiny kitchen without a major incident.
It all revolved around the crazy 500-degree hot pizza oven that took up a good chunk of the real estate. Through its heavy glass door, I could see five levels of baking sheets rotating around a center spindle. I don’t know how long I watched that delicious merry-go-round, probably with my mouth hanging open, but suddenly our server slid a large pepperoni pie onto our table and I snapped out of it.
“Enjoy!” she said, and we did.
“Enjoy!” she said, and we did.
Sunday morning, we had to say goodbye to our cozy hotel room headquarters and headed back to a much quieter downtown. At Bader’s Cafe, the griddle was hot and breakfast came so fast we were beginning to think that there’s a city ordinance requiring speedy service.
While we sipped our OJs, we made plans for the rest of the day. It was back to Myre-Big Island State Park for a hike and there were plenty of choices.
While we sipped our OJs, we made plans for the rest of the day. It was back to Myre-Big Island State Park for a hike and there were plenty of choices.
We had our pick of 16 miles of hiking trails, including the Esker Trail, which allows a glimpse into the area’s glacial history through a narrow gravel ridge formed by streams flowing beneath ancient ice sheets. The Great Marsh Trail is especially popular with bird watchers. The park’s diverse habitats make it one of southern Minnesota’s premier birding destinations, attracting white pelicans, Canada geese, ducks, shorebirds, hawks, and many other species. More than 450 species of wildflowers add to the park’s natural beauty throughout the growing season. Albert Lea Lake is a popular destination for anglers, and it also forms part of the Shell Rock River State Water Trail, a paddling route that continues to the Minnesota-Iowa border.
Undecided on which trails to take, we stopped at Mocha and Mini for some post-breakfast donuts, hoping the rush of sugar would spark a decision. While waiting for my coffee drink, I noticed a collection of photographs of people in uniforms taped to the wall by the register. I was puzzled and had to ask the staff. Turns out, the members of the Albert Lea Police Department and the Freeborn County Sheriff’s posse have their own trading cards like your favorite sports personality, which they hand out to anyone who asks. Like on cue, Deputy Chief Darin Palmer walked in the door and confirmed it was no joke. “We have to print more all the time,” he said.
Who knew police frequented donut shops?
When we got to the park, we decided to walk the Prairie View and Great Marsh trails and were amazed by the variety of plants and animals we encountered. Our amateur app-assisted eyes and ears were able to identify yellow avens, daisy fleabane, common yarrow, yellow-headed blackbirds, dickcissels, and common yellowthroats. The birdwatching was wonderful, but for the most part we enjoyed putting off the trip home with a walk under brilliant blue skies and watching the grasses ripple like water.
One plant new to us was the native rattlesnake master, which resembles thistle with leaves that look like those of the aloe plant. Early settlers named it so because they observed Native Americans use the plant for medicinal purposes and falsely assumed it was a cure for rattlesnake bites. I briefly wondered why the name stuck, because it should have been pretty obvious it didn’t work.
Before we hit the road, we needed lunch, and the Hot Mess Express food truck in Albert Lea had what we were looking for. Owners Natalie and Troy had parked a little yellow trailer kitchen on an empty lot on South Broadway Avenue, rolled out recycled AstroTurf from a football field, put up a shelter, and started pumping out burgers and tacos just a few weeks before we visited. I opted for carnitas tacos, Jen took the crunchburger which was piled with onion rings, and we both loved it. “That’s a good use of onions,” Jen said between bites, adding “I can’t set this down, because it’ll never go back together.” A hot mess, indeed, and a worthy sendoff for a long ride home.
Albert Lea is a place where you can spend the morning riding through wetlands, the afternoon talking horsepower, and the evening eating pizza while listening to live music drifting across a lake. We met friendly locals, stumbled onto roadside lemonade, found a few unexpected attractions, and even on one of the busiest weekends of the year, there’s a table waiting for you at a local restaurant. No Summertime Blues here—unless that’s what you came for.
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About me
I’m Jan, the publisher of Minnesota Trails Magazine. I’m looking for that one trail, the next ride, a new discovery and other reasons to never sit still in Minnesota.