Biking and Browsing in the Perham Area

We didn’t expect our weekend in Perham, Minnesota, and nearby New York Mills to include a Paul Bunyan-sized bed, a wooden fishing decoy with Cadillac eyes, and a troll’s arm reaching out of a downtown wall, but we found it. We came for the bike trails and small-town charm. We left with pastry crumbs on our shirts, trail dirt on our legs, and smiles that lasted long past Sunday.

Friday: Settling In and Soaking Up Local Culture


You could call New York Mills peaceful, but that doesn’t quite cover it. When we pulled up to the New York Mills Regional Cultural Center, the whole town seemed to exhale. But maybe it was just us, and the fog of a long week was finally lifting when we stepped out of the car.

The building has worn many hats in its hundred-something-year history: general store, dance hall, you name it, but it’s been a cultural center for around 30 years now. Walking in, we were immediately drawn to the current exhibits: paintings by PJ Eiden, full of serene landscapes and nature-inspired scenes, and wooden fishing decoys by Rodney A. Osvold that ranged from traditional to tongue-in-cheek. One had Cadillac emblems for eyes. What if the fish I’m after is more into Fords?  popped into my head. That made me giggle and drew a side-eye from Jen in the pin-drop-silent gallery.
Upstairs, a ballet studio gleamed with mirrored walls and hardwood floors. Old black-and-white photos lined the hallway, telling the story of the building’s past lives.

We chatted with Emily Ericksrud, the program specialist, who was working the front desk. “Mills,” as the locals call it, is her hometown, and her eyes lit up when she talked about the 150–180 events they host each year. “I meet a lot of cool people here,” she told us. She paints, plays piano, and does beadwork, a reminder that small towns often hold big talent. We exited through the gift shop, which offered locally made goods, and we were tempted by everything from fiber art to handcrafted jewelry.

Dinner was just a short walk away at the Continental Divide Brew Pub. Brick on one wall, wood slabs on the other, and a giant topographical map of Otter Tail County anchored the space. A tap handle on the map marked New York Mills, and we appreciated the hometown pride. It felt like a love letter to the region.
We ordered a Tall Timbers pizza, piled high with arugula, and watched the cook work the brick oven like a wizard. With 15 beers on tap, we noticed a local favorite from Disgruntled Brewing in nearby Perham made the list. They even whipped up a virgin blueberry mojito for me that hit the perfect sweet-tart balance.

After dinner Jen and I stopped at the New York Mills Sculpture Park alongside Highway 10 on the northern edge of town. I scanned the Talking Trail QR code on a sign and a friendly narrator told the story of how New York Mills became a hub for the arts in central Minnesota. Since its inception in the 1990s numerous artists have contributed sculptures to this open-air park, and it’s surrounded by a bent-metal fence made from threaded rod twisted into organic shapes-a piece of art by itself. The centerpiece is a massive metal sculpture resembling a tractor crossing sign that was welded by Ottertail County Native Ken Nyberg, whose work you will inevitably come across when you travel this part of the state. Read our story about our trip to Battle Lake and a visit to the Vining Sculpture Park

Our base camp for the weekend was the Whistle Stop Bed & Breakfast in New York Mills. Whistle Stop offers rooms in the main house, but they’re better known for their restored railroad cars turned guest suites. We stayed in the cottage, which felt like our own private up-north hideaway. Inside, it was all cabin-core and cozy comforts: a jacuzzi tub in the bathroom, a full kitchen, a little reading nook where we sipped our morning coffee, and a massive brass bed that looked like Paul Bunyan had it custom made. Jen called dibs on the reading nook, but I wasn’t complaining, because our only to-do item for the rest of the night was “nothing.”
We turned in early. Saturday was going to be a big one.

Saturday: Trails, Trolls, and Taste Tests

We had to miss breakfast at the B&B, but we had ambitious plans that required an early start. Our goal: ride the Heart of the Lakes Trail toward Maplewood State Park, then loop back for food, shopping, and whatever else we could find along the way.
Lakes Café in Perham, a Saturday morning institution, was our first stop. Locals called out greetings to one another, and a server playfully asked a table of regulars, “What are you guys doing today?” like she genuinely wanted to know. The skies were overcast, but it was sunny in there, with a lively crowd buzzing right along. We ordered and blinked, and our food was already up. Jen went with the “Two by Four” (two eggs, two pancakes, two bacon strips, two sausages), while I had Eggs Benedict.

With a breakfast that fast, we had time for post-breakfast pastries at Speckled Egg Bakery. The gleaming bakery case was still fully stocked, and maybe we were their first customers of the day. Jen picked a fruit-topped square pastry with croissant-like flakiness. I went for a strawberry-and-cream-filled croissant, which I refused to share.

A surprise rain sent us into Nest, a modern coffee shop with a colorful interior and fast-moving line. From our cozy window seat, we watched the skies clear as we sipped lattes. Nest also has a well-curated shop full of lake-themed gifts and Minnesota-made goodies. We left caffeinated, sugared, and ready to roll.

We biked the Perham to McDonald Lakes section of the Heart of the Lakes Trail, the newest arrow in Otter Tail County’s quiver of outdoor recreation destinations. It connects Perham to Pelican Rapids via Maplewood State Park with a 32-mile ribbon of trail that delivers a medley of wooded glades, open fields, and rolling hills. There’s no shortage of glimmering lake views, either, because Otter Tail County has the most bodies of water of any county in the United States.

We only had time for about half the trail and, regrettably, had to postpone a visit to Maplewood State Park until the next time. However, we were not disappointed with the Perham and McDonald Lakes section. Every uphill climb led to an exhilarating descent, the trail leading off into the horizon and over the next hill. It was trail therapy without the traffic. Just us, our bikes, and the breeze. And, like a welcome mat for two-wheeled travelers, the route was signed very well, and numerous rest areas had varying amenities, from just a bench to water spigots and repair stations.

Just before we reached Maplewood State Park, we found the Blackboard Restaurant, a former country schoolhouse turned dining gem. The bell tower still stood proud, and inside it was cozy, casual, and just the right amount of quirky. Purposely mismatched and thrifted plates and flatware came in for a sustainability win.

Jen raved about her sunfish sandwich with light breading and heirloom tomatoes, while I devoured a burrata board with pesto and baguette slices. Even the bathroom was memorable: hairspray, flossers, and cologne available for freshening up, and brass animal heads wearing glasses adorned the wall. Now that’s hospitality. On the way out, we spotted a sign that read, “See the good.” We certainly did.
And, yes, the old schoolhouse bell still works, but I was asked not to pull the rope. They must be familiar with my work.

On the ride back, we passed more families and individuals soaking up the summer day. One entrepreneurial kid had set up a lemonade stand trailside, and we investigated. His pitch? “It’s real cold.”
Back in town, we strolled through Perham, which was bursting with charm and full of surprises.

The Perham mural, featuring iconic local imagery, was a great spot for a photo op. And because Perham holds an annual turtle race, it was no surprise we ran into a few members of the Emydidae family scattered around town. Maybe the weirdest, and coolest of all: Alexa, the Troll. Though the actual Thomas Dambo troll statue lives in Detroit Lakes, Alexa can “reach through magical portals” to other towns. One of her massive hands was emerging from a muraled wall, equal parts strange and delightful.
We spent the afternoon wandering in and out of Perham’s downtown shops, each one offering its own little world.

Our first stop was Tru North, a bright and welcoming store filled with lake-life essentials. Think soft hoodies, custom t-shirts with clever Minnesota sayings, and enough stylish drinkware to stock a pontoon. They also had ice cream, which we couldn’t ignore. Nothing says small-town summer like browsing graphic tees while licking a waffle cone.

A few steps away, we found ourselves at Bridgette’s Main Frames, an art and framing shop that doubles as a local gallery. We lingered especially long over a set of Sara Browne’s loon paintings. They were crisp, elegant, and serene in their muted color palettes; distilled down to their basic shapes, but wild at the same time. You could practically hear them calling just by looking at them.

Next up was Dot and Minnie’s, a trendy little boutique that seemed designed for the person Jen wishes she could be on vacation every day: chic, comfortable, and always prepared for an impromptu lakeside picnic or downtown stroll. She let out a very enthusiastic “Ooooh” at least three times while rifling through dresses and accessories.

Prairiegrass had a quieter energy, like a calm, curated mix of home goods, books, and gifts. It felt like a place you’d wander into looking for a thank-you card and walk out with a new favorite coffee mug, a throw blanket, and a scented candle you didn’t know you needed.

Then there was North Threads, where the fashion leaned upscale but still felt unmistakably “up north.” The clothes were high-quality and stylish, but the vibe remained laid-back. It was the kind of place where a cashmere cardigan could hang next to a flannel shirt, and both would somehow make perfect sense.

But the real surprise of the day was North Pines Market. We thought we were walking into a home décor store. That it is, but with a twist. A big twist. They have a DIY fireplace mantle station where you can choose your slab of wood, pick a stain, and customize the hardware to match your style. We’d never seen anything like it. On top of that, they sell a collection of spicy, cheeky, made-in-house greeting cards that had us laughing out loud.

Just down the block, we stepped into Rustic Coneflower, a warm and stylish women’s boutique where Jen struck gold and found a new outfit. The staff was friendly, the vibe unpretentious, and we both loved checking out their custom-burned Durango hats, each one a wearable work of art.

To cool down, we ducked into Brew, the local upscale watering hole, and immediately liked the vibe. The long, tall, skinny building felt cozy, with a mezzanine overlooking the bar and a couple dozen craft taps lining the wall. The bartender didn’t miss a beat and whipped up a couple of alcohol-free creations for us. I sipped a peachy keen while Jen went for a rhubarb cream soda made with their own house-made rhubarb purée.

We couldn’t resist a stop at the Bongards Cheese Shop before leaving downtown. For starters, you’re greeted with a moo when you open the door. Inside, it was cheese heaven. Bacon cheese. Jalapeño cheese. Horseradish cheese. Every flavor imaginable, wrapped and stacked in a dairy lover’s dreamscape, made right in town. Overindulging is practically a requirement at a place like this.

We also wandered into Goose Gang, a three-level emporium of toys, popcorn, and candy. It’s basically the North Pole’s summer home, minus the elves.

Then we drooled over the outdoor cooking gear at Wild Goose: shiny Ooni and Memphis grills, colorful patio furniture, the works.

Dinner was at 1894, a restaurant inside a repurposed church. In a space where German Lutherans were once baptized, married, and mourned, people of all walks of life now find food and drink. We pushed open the heavy wooden doors and were shown to the Belltower Room, where there was just enough room for a table and four massive, high-backed chairs, and we had a good view of the former altar.

Jen, naturally, ordered the Belltower Burger with mushroom cream sauce. I had the pepperoni pizza, made with real dough, house sauce, and, you guessed it, Bongards cheese. On the way out, we took a look at the array of black-and-white wedding photos that lined the hallway. Even the old collection plate had been repurposed for charitable giving. Talk about full circle.

Before heading back to New York Mills, we capped the night at Disgruntled Brewing, which has a great backyard space with a low-key vibe. But after a full day of exploring, we quickly made our way back to the Whistle Stop cottage, and with a hearty “Uff Da,” plopped into our reading nook and put up our feet for the first time that day.

Sunday: Donuts, Dirt, and the Drive Home

Our patience paid off: breakfast at Whistle Stop was delivered right to our door at 9 a.m. sharp. There was raspberry rhubarb bread pudding, fruit, OJ, coffee, and even a tiny bouquet of fresh flowers in a vase. We clinked coffee cups across the buffalo plaid tablecloth and savored those last few moments.

After packing up, we made a mandatory stop in New York Mills at the Farmer’s Daughter Café & Bakery, which looks like an antiques store from the outside. Inside, it’s the town’s gathering place. Jen grabbed a glazed twist, and I devoured a flaky apple fritter. The case was packed with every donut you could dream of, except for the famous tractor tires, which were already gone.

We ended the trip with a ride through Black’s Grove, a scenic set of mountain bike trails that winds along Oak Creek through dense woods and occasional open meadows near Wadena, MN. There are about eight miles of trail, ranging from beginner to advanced. The vibe is old-school singletrack: tight, twisty, and technical in spots. If your handlebars are extra wide, you might want to slow it down. It’s narrow in places but beautiful all the way through. In the winter, the same trails are groomed for cross-country skiing and fat biking. We’ll have to come back for that.

We packed a lot into a weekend, but it never felt rushed. That’s the magic of this part of Minnesota. The towns may be small, but the surprises are everywhere and your mind is so well engaged that you don’t feel your feet getting tired. From a troll’s hand on a wall to a cheese shop that moos when you open the door. Whether you’re in it for the art, the eats, the riding, or the peace and quiet, the Perham area has something to offer. And we’ll be back. Probably hungry. Probably on bikes. Definitely bringing the kayaks and getting on one of the 1,048 lakes.