Jackson County Trails and More
When my wife, Jen, and I pulled up to our campsite we immediately felt at ease. It was right on the water and besides the few dragonflies hovering around the reeds on the shore, there was very little going on. Under the cover of so many tall oaks, the pressing heat of the day was tolerable and a light breeze flowed up from the lake. This was going to be home for the next few days while we explored new territory in southwestern Minnesota.
Jackson County operates nine parks and recreation areas, four of which offer camping. Three of these four, Brown, Anderson and Robertson Park, are clustered around Loon and Pearl Lake, southwest of Jackson, near the Minnesota-Iowa border. Our basecamp was at Robertson County Park on Loon Lake, which has a nice campground with water and electric hookups and a bathroom building with showers. We couldn’t have been much closer to Loon Lake if we had tried and had great views from our site. There was nothing on the docket for the rest of the day, so we hung out at camp for the afternoon, watched the fish jump and listened to the cicadas. At dusk, we watched the fireflies do their dance just before the sun disappeared behind the lake.
The next day Jen stayed behind to tend camp while I explored nearby Lakefield. The first order of business was, of course, a stop at Simply Sweet Cheesecake on Highway 86. Owner Megan sells a variety of pastries like scones, cookies and donuts as well as coffee and smoothies, but there’s cheesecake in the name and that’s what I stopped for. She has full-sized cakes in over a dozen flavors, but I was happy to get a personal-sized cake to go. The best part is that it all happened at a drive-through window. The world definitely needs more drive-through cheesecake windows.
Down the road, I visited SoJo Coffee Company, a coffee shop, eatery and roastery rolled into one. The square, red brick building on Second Avenue North was busy with patrons who enjoyed themselves on the patio. It was my kind of place, especially because I was packing a cheesecake. Inside, owner Brent was working the espresso machine behind the counter and made me a very tasty cup of joe to go. We ended up chatting about the world and life in general, but more customers were coming in and I had plans.
I took my treasures to Sparks Park on the northwestern edge of town. It’s a small park, but it has plenty of trails with interpretive signs. The grounds are taken care of by the Prairie Ecology Bus Center, a non-profit with the mission of educating adults and children about natural sciences.
On the Naturalist Loop trail, I found a nice bench overlooking a creek and took a moment in time to enjoy some good coffee and indulge in a turtle cheesecake. For the record, I took half of it home to Jen.
On the Naturalist Loop trail, I found a nice bench overlooking a creek and took a moment in time to enjoy some good coffee and indulge in a turtle cheesecake. For the record, I took half of it home to Jen.
Back in downtown Lakefield, I went shopping for provisions. When I opened the door to Kiehl’s Bakery, the familiar smell of baked goods hit my nose. This small-town bakery makes a huge variety of breads and pastries and in the display case lay gleaming, sweet goodies of every imaginable shape. Baked, fried, sugared, frosted, sprinkled, stuffed, dipped, dusted and chocolate-chipped, they called out to me from behind the sparkling glass, but I showed near super-human restraint. I was here to get a loaf of bread, and there were lots to choose from.
White, wheat, rye, pumpernickel, they were all here. I bought a one-pound whole wheat loaf and stepped away from the donuts before my resolve melted like frosting in the sun.
White, wheat, rye, pumpernickel, they were all here. I bought a one-pound whole wheat loaf and stepped away from the donuts before my resolve melted like frosting in the sun.
Just a bit farther down Main Street was The Butcher Shop. They, too, had cases full of everything I love. Chops, roasts, steaks, hamburger, snack sticks, jerky, summer sausage, brats; the list went on and on. I had come for one particular thing, bacon. “Best bacon in the world,” said employee Brady from the back room where he was working at the cutting table. That was all I needed to hear.
Back at Robertson Park, I picked up Jen to visit Jackson’s evening Riverside Farmers and Makers Market. A short stretch of Second Street had been closed off, and we perused the vegetable and craft stands. At the Brandt Gardens booth, we picked up some fresh tomatoes.
We moved on to Belmont County Park to experience the mountain bike trails, a relatively new system on 80 acres on the Des Moines River. Three trail loops with Lakota names make for a total of five miles of singletrack. Wowahwa (peace) is an easy, flat, beginner trail that’s just shy of one mile long. Ian Shasha Wapka (Red Stone River, the Lakota name for the Des Moines River) is a 1.8-mile, intermediate ride and the 2.7-mile Thaththanka (bison) trail is a good fit for advanced riders.
Our own mountain bikes were out of commission, but, luckily, the Jackson County Parks Department has a few mountain bikes for rent. With prior arrangements, we picked up our rides at the park. We warmed up with a couple of loops on the easy trail, then dropped into the ravine, on to the harder stuff. Driving up to the park across flat fields, we had no idea what was waiting for us, but the terrain was anything but flat and recent rains had the park looking like a lush jungle. It was a hot evening, and we worked hard to get back out of the river valley on switchback trails. Back on top, after a couple of hours of fun, we were gritty, sweaty, and tuckered out, but happy.
So much activity called for a very special dinner date. After we cleaned up and donned our finest camping-friendly apparel, we went back to Lakefield. Just south of town, a vintage 1940s Oldsmobile is a permanent fixture in the driveway of the Hi-Lo-Club. The historic supper club traces its roots back to 1945 and carries on the tradition of fine dining in Lakefield. We stepped inside the comfortably lit bar area where guests sat around white marble tables on funky, yellow swivel chairs with brass rivets. Behind the bar and in front of a sparkling mirror glass wall filled with liquor bottles, a bartender-dressed in black-was rattling the shaker and pouring drinks into fancy cocktail glasses. The dining room was filled with more tables and booths with black tablecloths and napkins. A huge, blue, vintage neon sign let us know that we were, indeed, in the Hi-Lo-Club.
Jen felt like puttin’ on the Ritz and ordered the lobster mac and cheese. I had the chicken Cordon Bleu and both our dinners were fantastic. Of course, we couldn’t just wash this much
decadence down with a simple brew and went for the Raspberry Lemon Drop and the Aperol Spritz. Maybe I need to get out more, but this was the first time I had ever seen a digestif menu in any Minnesota restaurant and this one not only had espresso on it, but also Fernet Branca, an intensely bitter and pungent after-dinner drink.
The next day we had a lazy morning at camp. After a couple of days of what seemed like non-stop exploring, it was wonderful to just sit by the lake, enjoy a lovely summer day in the shade of giant oak trees and relax in a quiet campground. We eventually got off our duffs and took the bikes out for a spin. The paved Loon Lake Trail connects Brown to Robertson Park, then drops south through farm fields and prairie and ends at Iowa’s Mini-Wakan State Park. It was a pleasant five-mile ride, but we weren’t done, yet.
When we returned to camp, I leaped into action and made BLTs for lunch, with the ingredients sourced in Lakefield and Jackson. There’s nothing quite like a great camp sandwich made with local ingredients and this one was extra special.
We’re just not that good at sitting around and in the afternoon we put the kayaks in the water and went for a paddle on loon lake. The southern end of the lake is surrounded by Robertson and Brown County Parks, and a Waterfowl Production Area, so there’s little development to disturb the shoreline. We had a great time lazily paddling along, and watched the pelicans bobbing on the water, who were always watchful of how close we were getting.
We’re just not that good at sitting around and in the afternoon we put the kayaks in the water and went for a paddle on loon lake. The southern end of the lake is surrounded by Robertson and Brown County Parks, and a Waterfowl Production Area, so there’s little development to disturb the shoreline. We had a great time lazily paddling along, and watched the pelicans bobbing on the water, who were always watchful of how close we were getting.
Dinner was at Nena’s Bar and Grill in Heron Lake, where colorful murals greeted us in the dining room. It was a busy, lively place and servers darted from table to table, taking orders and serving food. Mere minutes after we sat down, we had our menus, which were amazing to read. Before there was any mention of food in the thick booklet, we browsed through pages and pages of colorful pictures of exotic drinks, lavishly decorated with anything from shrimp to lollipops and served in bowls, jars or glasses, depending on the size. There were spicy micheladas and an endless variety of mojitos, margaritas, cantaritos and other specialty cocktails. They even had a margarita tower, a tall tube filled with the flavor of your choice, delivered to your table for you, and many of your friends, to dispense your own via a spigot on the bottom.
The food menu was a firework of cultures. There were, of course, quesadillas, burritos and chimichangas, but also Honduran dishes. For those unsure about so much choice, there were burgers and wings and fusion dishes like the carne-asada-with-fries-pizza-quesadilla. There was also a flaming hot dog, a frank topped with cheese and flaming hot Cheetos, because why not? Just when we thought we had made up our mind, we saw the seafood boil menu, which had everything from crab legs to crawfish, made to order. I went for the carne asada con tajadas, a Honduran dish with grilled beef and plantains. Jen had the cielo, mar y tiera, a medley of surf and turf critters, served on rice. While we waited, we watched the people at the next table tear into giant steamer bags filled with seafood and felt a slight tinge of jealousy. We got over it very quickly when our food arrived and it was awesome.
On the way back to camp we passed through the hamlet of Okabena and stopped for a photo op. At first, the rusty frame of a 1930s Ford, parked at what was once the town’s creamery, didn’t seem to have any meaning, even though it was occupied by two skeletons. But, for over 90 years there’s been a debate going on that’s split the residents of Okabena into two camps. Those who believe that on May 19th, 1933, First State Bank in town was robbed by Tony, Floyd, and Mildred Strain and those who think it was actually the notorious gangster couple Bonny and Clyde. Regardless, this event has found itself into local lore and a staged robbery and shootout have become part of Okabena’s annual Fourth of July celebration.
The next day we got an early start, because our itinerary was packed with activities in and around Jackson. Santee Crossing, the local family restaurant, was a good choice for breakfast. It was a busy morning, but our server was right on top of it and our omelet and breakfast sandwich came out fast, piping hot and tasty.
After breakfast, we visited historic Fort Belmont. The expansive compound is run by the Jackson County Chamber and houses a collection of artifacts inside a museum and a collection of various historical buildings, spread around the campus.We were right on time for the tour to start. Our very enthusiastic volunteer guide explained in detail every item in the collection in the main building, from a rare 1900s Brush automobile to an antique, pre-electricity pinball machine; all in some way tied to Jackson County’s history. Our guide even fired up an old player piano which for the perfect soundtrack to a trip back in time.
We spent the next hour or so touring the outdoor exhibits. Led by our guide, we explored the Lysgard Home, a new antique pharmacy exhibit and the old Delafield church. Then, we were on our own and walked the grounds on mowed paths to see what’s called Fort Belmont, a replica of the stockade and log cabin built by early settlers, one of two civilian-built forts in the Midwest of the 1800s. A replica sod house, watch tower, grist mill and blacksmith shop rounded out the collection of buildings meant to tell the story of the early settlers in Jackson County
After so much history, we had to have lunch, of course, and Kat’s Hog Heaven was our choice. The name says it all, because on their menu, pork is the star of the show. It came grilled, fried, smoked, pulled, glazed and smothered. Heaven for us, for sure. It was quiet there during lunch and the cozy pine-clad bar area was empty. We found a booth and, after some deliberation, made a solid choice. Jen opted for the grilled pork tenderloin melt, which she loved. It’s rare to see fresh pork rinds on a menu, so I had no choice, but to take one for the team. They came out sizzling and crackled in my mouth like savory pop rocks. Amazing.
After lunch, we strolled down Second Street in search of coffee and struck gold. Conveniently placed right next to each other were Cosmos and Clover, a boutique, and Smokin’ Java, a coffee shop and restaurant. We stopped at the clothing store where Jen immediately disappeared between the racks. She eventually resurfaced, torn between two dresses, and I was to be the tiebreaker. The powder blue twirl dress won and, behold, Jen twirled, and the skirt flared out into a perfect circle.
Next door, at Smokin’ Java, the sound of the hissing espresso machine greeted us when we walked in the door. We were surprised to learn that they also had an extensive smoked meat menu, but we were so full from lunch we only had room for a scone. While we sipped our iced drinks, we studied the Jackson city bike trail map. The Friends of Jackson County Trails, a local advocacy group, has been working on building bikeable and walkable trails in the county since the late 1990s and Jackson’s city network of trails has since grown to about nine miles. The city of Jackson even received silver-level Bike Friendly Community designation by the League of American Bicyclists in 2021, a first in southwestern Minnesota. We started biking from Ashley Park and made our rounds around town, literally, on the Des Moines River, Sunset and Nelson Creek Loops. While the Sunset Loop makes an almost complete circle around the perimeter of Jackson, the Des Moines River Loop travels on both sides of the river with scenic views of the rushing waters. Part of the Nelson Creek Trail cuts through a picturesque piece of land along its namesake creek.
The mood was a bit melancholy that night, but another gorgeous sunset over Loon Lake helped us get over the fact that our trip was nearing its end.
On our last day, we broke camp and started out the day with brunch. Round Lake Vineyards is a sprawling, 70-acre estate right on picturesque Round Lake in the southwestern corner of Jackson County. A long driveway leads to the main building that houses the bistro, outdoor patio and wine tasting room, but there’s also a huge ballroom, and even an outdoor bar. The vineyard grows varieties that include Frontenac Blanc, Marquette and Itasca and makes eight different wines, but, for us, it was too early for a tasting. We were there for the brunch, which included a nice spread of fruits, meats, vegetables as well as quiche and lasagna, even a meatless option. Owner Scott stopped at our table to welcome us and make sure everything was to our liking, and we chatted for a while.
We needed to work this hearty meal off and stopped at Kilen Woods State Park for a short hike. This quiet 200-acre park on the Des Moines River has five miles of hiking trails that travel through a diverse landscape of open prairie, river bottom meadows and oak forest. Beginning in September, monarch butterflies are plentiful in the meadows as they gather for their annual migration, but it was a little too early for that. We were able to piece together a nice, easy hike on the Sioux, Riverside, Ox Cart and Rock Creek trails. Much like the trails at Belmont County Park, just a mile and a half to the southeast, the hiking paths here meander down steep slopes, cut into the glacial drift by the Des Moines River. Refreshed from our hike, it was finally time to actually head home, but this wasn’t going to be our last visit.
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About me
I’m Jan, the publisher of Minnesota Trails Magazine. I’m looking for that one trail, the next ride, a new discovery and other reasons to never sit still in Minnesota.