A Tale of Two Trails: Paul Bunyan State Trail

Apr 6, 2022Guest Blog

Visit our trail-friendly sponsor!
Experience Minnesota's North Shore splendor in beautiful Cook County

By Molly Brewer Hoeg 

Part two of a two-part story Read part one here

I had some unfinished business in the North Woods of Minnesota.  After cycling half of the Paul Bunyan and Heartland Trail system a couple of summers ago, I just had to return to complete what I started.  At a parking lot south of Walker, near the spot where a golden spike still marks the marriage of the two trails, I hopped on my bike to cycle the remaining 75 miles of the Paul Bunyan Trail all the way to Crow Wing State Park.

A brown metal sign marks the spot where the Paul Bunyan State Trail meets the Heartland State Trail.

The morning fog was burning off as the sun rose higher in the sky, promising a warm day as I piloted my bike down the trail. Just by looking at the map I could tell this first section was a departure from the rails-to-trails path that characterizes much of the trail system. The eight-mile piece through the Chippewa National Forest was built on forest access and logging roads and squiggles across the paper with an advisory about steep slopes and curves.

A woman rides her bike on a paved trail through a forest in the summer
A woman rides her bike on a paved trail through a forest in the summer

Cutting through stands of stately pines, I wound around curves, dipped and climbed hills and delighted in the wild roses, daisies, strawberries, buttercups and red columbines that dappled the trailside with color. My initial concern that this stretch would be too challenging quickly faded, and I savored the 8-mile joy ride.

A woman wearing a helmet pauses to look down a steep winding trail in the summer
Lush views of green forest and blues skies with a lake in the distance

The trail resumed its typical personality after the ride through the hilly section.  I could see miles of flat, straight trail ahead, now bordered by deciduous trees forming a welcome canopy to shield me from the sun.  Boggy land, ponds covered in lily pads and lakes comprised my scenery as I pedaled the quiet trail.  The Paul Bunyan Trail is popular with cyclists, walkers and in-line skaters throughout the summer months, but given its 123-mile length it never feels crowded.

A closeup of the Mississippi River Trail and Paul Bunyan Trail sign
A closeup of Lady's Slipper orchids and a mosquito in mid-flight

I met Paul Bunyan’s sweetheart Lucette at the boat landing in Hackensack.  Towering over Birch Lake Park, she was the first of the ubiquitous statues and carvings I would find on this part of the trail.  While the northern miles favored wilderness and towns hidden from the cycling path, I soon found that today’s ride would take me straight through the center of many vibrant communities, all eager to share in Paul’s legacy.  They also catered to cyclists, with easy access to visitor centers, restrooms, drinking water and tempting restaurants.

A woman sits on the steps of the Lucette statue in Hackensack, MN

I couldn’t miss Colonel Cobber in the center of Backus.  The giant cornstalk, created by a local chainsaw artist, loomed overhead, flanked by a sign that filled me in on his elaborate history and introduced his wife, Tasseltop. In a flower-filled park just beyond, I discovered a small plaque marking a time capsule.  Buried in 1996 for the dedication of the Paul Bunyan Trail, its contents will be revealed in 2046.

A woman wearing a helmet looks at Colonel Cobber, a tall, wooden statue of a corn cob man

Continuing south, the trail parallels the highway for the next 25 miles.  Still bordered by trees and wildflowers, it was enough of a buffer to distract me from the nearby traffic.  Pine River has a unique visitor center, filled with all things Paul Bunyan. While posing for a picture in the lumberjack’s baby booties carved from tree trunks, I learned that the weekly Duck Races were about to begin. How could I resist? 

A woman poses for a photo with an oversized, wooden pair of "Paul Bunyan's baby booties
Children fetch rubber ducks from a river as part of a "duck race"

A short jaunt over to the river brought me to a dam where a crowd was gathering for the afternoon event.  Young princesses from the County Fair collected money for the ducks and handed out numbered slips to the stakeholders.  Youngsters waded in the river to string up the finish line.  Right on time, a trash can full of orange decoy ducks was ceremoniously dumped over the side of the dam to begin their race downriver.  Ducks floated, lingered and meandered toward the finish line. Some were sidelined in the rocky shore along the way, but all were cheered on by anxious number holders.  I stayed long enough to see a green flock of ducks make the same trip, and then returned to the trail to move on to my next stop.

View of the Pequot Lakes Chamber of Commerce building in Pequot Lakes, MN

Pequot Lakes delivered a mighty fine lunch at Lakes Latté, fuel for the rest of my journey.  With the bobber-shaped water tower in the background, I noticed a pair of large concrete footprints in the grass.  “Paul was here”, the sign stated.  It seemed a fitting mantra for my ride.

By this time I had reached the lakes region, and soon I had water views alongside the trail.  The canopy of trees returned, and I enjoyed peering through the leaves to peek at cabins and lake homes perched on the water.  I even caught a glimpse of a nesting loon.  Feeling pressed for time, I reluctantly passed on Nisswa’s Pioneer Village and historic Main Street with its enticing shops.  Leaving town, the trail moved away from the highway and traversed woods and marshes in the countryside.

A woman rides her bike on a paved trail across a bridge in the summer

The newest section of trail lies beyond Brainerd, weaving into Crow Wing State Park.  Just as it began, the path became free flowing again, winding through the woods with ups and downs that I barely felt.  Gliding over the new pavement through the hush of the park, I passed through both forest and prairie to reach the conclusion of my trip. It was the end of the trail, and the rest of the tale.

A woman rides her bike on a paved trail through a field in the summer
Molly Brewer Hoeg

Molly Brewer Hoeg

Molly Brewer Hoeg is a freelance writer and outdoor fitness enthusiast from Duluth Minnesota. When she’s not writing, you’ll find her outdoors, running, cycling and cross-country skiing, or pampering her five grandchildren. Since retiring, Molly and her husband, Rich, have taken up bicycle touring, spending about a month each year traveling on their own by bicycle and have pedaled over 11,000 miles together. Molly blogs about their trips at SuperiorFootprints.org and is writing a book about the ups and downs of constant togetherness at 12 miles an hour.

Visit our trail-friendly sponsor!
Minnesota's Tour de Save is an annual bike ride fundraiser for suicide prevention
Brainerd is in the heart of Minnesota's Lake Country
Fergus Falls is the gateway to the scenic Central Lakes State Trail
Experience Minnesota's North Shore splendor in beautiful Cook County
Parks and Trails Council of Minnesota

Keep up with the latest MN Trails news and events in our newsletter

About me

I’m Jan, the publisher of Minnesota Trails Magazine. I’m looking for that one trail, the next ride, a new discovery and other reasons never to sit still in Minnesota.

Save

More stories:

Save the Date for These 2023 Bike Rides

Road, trail, gravel, you name it. Take a look at our list of 2023 bike rides and mark your calendars!

Made in MN: Forage + Roam Lifestyle Goods

Forage + Roam Lifestyle Goods in Buffalo, MN is coming up on its first anniversary and has already received rave reviews.

Adventure Report: Heart of the Lakes Trail

Our work on the way up was rewarded with glorious roll after glorious roll, the ribbon of trail disappearing into the distance and around the next curve.

Adventure Report: Lake Shetek State Park

A spontaneous trip to southwestern Minnesota gives our snowshoes a workout.

Bluenose Gopher 50 Gravel Race

We talked to the organizers if the inaugural Bluenose Gopher 50 Gravel Race to hear how it went.

Guest Blog: Great River Bluffs State Park

Guest blogger Alyson Eversman explores this southern Minnesota gem of a state park.

Task Force Recommends New Office to Make State Parks More Inviting to Diverse Users

Outdoor recreation is a huge business in Minnesota. It could be much bigger if people of color saw more campers and hikers who looked like them.

Trail Pairings: Luce Line State Trail

Hutchinson, MN is home to the Luce Line State Trail and 3BC Brewing. A perfect fall combination.

Trail Pairings: Mineral Springs Brewery

The beers at Mineral Springs Brewery come with stories and the fat bike trails are groomed-a perfect match!

Trail Pairings: A Visit to Brainerd

Brainerd has been the launching point of some great day trips over the years, but this time we decided to stay the whole weekend and take a closer look.

Finding the Lost 40

Take the road less traveled and get a glimpse of what Minnesota’s woods were like before the settlers arrived.

Visit our trail-friendly sponsor!
Red Wing- One of the most unique and charming places to visit along the Mississippi River!

Please join our newsletter mailing list!

It’s your source for sneak previews of the next print issue, new trails to explore, upcoming events and the latest blog posts. We promise to keep it brief, entertaining and relevant and you can unsubscribe anytime. We will not share your info with anyone.

* indicates required